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Tuesday, September 11 2012

Dog Games to play

Some Games I have dreamt up that dogs love to play.

In this modern world the work that Dogs used to do has pretty much vanished from our day to day business of living. I think even in Alaska they prefer motorised sleds these days. Hunting is a waning sport for many and varied reasons, not the least of which are that City Dwelling Modern Humanity is repulsed by the blood sport thing, and violence etc.

I heard some time back that people in UK are thinking of not buying NZ Lamb because we use dogs to chase the sheep and they think it is cruel.

Well food for thought because people still want to have dogs in their lives and dogs need purpose just as much as people do. Dogs are not soft woolly live toys, they are animals with a set of teeth and four legs, who just love to run and chase and grab things and tear them apart. No matter what humankind may have bred the dog to look like it is just as much an outdoor, nose to the ground, chase that bird kind of critter on the inside as it ever was.

Today I went to my friend Rob's farm to choose a piglet to give to my friends up Ward Road, Chris and Mick. They have a four year old pet wild pig, a female who has produced three lovely litters so far. She was brought home from the bush at about five weeks old and thinks she is a dog, sits on command, roams the farm with the sheep and altogether lives the life of Riley whoever he may be. I usually supply a boar piglet to them, it lives there until Miss Piggy is well and truly pregnant and then becomes a freezer item. It is a very good life for a pig really, though to you it may sound somewhat strange. Anyway that was not the story, but it does sort of follow. When I pulled up at Rob's farm and came in through the gate in my ute, I had to stop because the ute was being greeted by a tiny pet lamb. No way would she move so I got out and picked her up and put her in the front seat of the ute and boy did she stink, living with the piglets I think. I had Fae the Fat Fairy in her crate in the back seat and she went nuts because lambkins was bleating and trying to find a teat to suck and I was trying to turn around in a narrow driveway, also inhabited by mother pig and nine multicoloured well fed piglets. If this sounds like a lot of fun it wasn't at the time. However, Rob appeared and of course lambkins is the nominee for daughter Emma's foray into Calf Lamb and Chicken Day at Kaharoa School in about four weeks. Emma did the chicken rearing thing when she was in the little classes, has since done the Calf thing and done quite well and this year she will compete with a lamb. I think she has a good chance, there is no way this little thing won't follow, it is hooked on humanity so her training must be going well. So while Rob got the pig and piglets out of the driveway and back into the pigsty, I fed lambkins its bottle and it head butted and played and did that thing that little lambs do jumping off the ground in a gravity defying manner with all four feet. I couldn't resist making it a friend while I was there. I chose the boar piglet and came home. While all this may sound like a bunch of good natured rambling, which it is, it forced me to think about the number of species which humankind deliberately separates from its parent breed at a very young age so that they can do something with it. This is something that goes back to antiquity. It was part of survival for humanity and part of the very beginning of that change from hunting continually for food, to keeping a bit of food on the hoof around you for a rainy day, otherwise known as farming. I have not met many people who do not gravitate to baby things, want to hold them, play with them, cuddle them and love them.

Puppies fit into this whole thing, the removal of wild puppies from their nest, rearing them in human company - allowing them to play with the children and grow up with the other pet species in a village environment - these were the origins of our dogs as we know them. Whether those wild puppies came from wolves or another species of wild dogs is irrelevant, the dogs we have today are totally the product of human intervention.

So you would think when I ask my client owners, 'What Games do you play with your Puppy', they would have some thing to tell me. Mostly they haven't, they don't play or they play ball. Some play frisbie but hardly anyone does the game that makes the dog love you the best, the tug game. Many people tell me that they have been told that tugging is bad and makes dogs aggressive, well it doesn't in fact it is the opposite, it sucks up all the aggression and focus's the dogs emotional energies very well.

The best first puppy game at 8 weeks old is a very soft little toy pulled along the ground on a string for your puppy to jump on. This is not a ferocious game of tug it is just a little quiet movement game as puppy's eyes are not fully functional yet. I find that they love it. I usually go nuts and buy one of those satin pussy cat toys on elastic that look like a mouse but are a lurid pink or blue. It usually takes about two weeks for them to shred it. Ah but I only bring out the lurid pink mouse at play time, I do not leave it lying about to be destroyed lost or mutilated by one of the other dogs in a jealous huff about my playing with the 'new' dog. By the time we have demolished this toy it is time to move on to something bigger and I usually go for something almost the same size as the pup, A large teddy bear or something soft and substantial. Elsewhere I have written about second hand toys in Op shops preloved and ready for puppy ownership. This too goes on a string and at about 11weeks I introduce a large soft ball, that bits can't be chewed off, to go with the new toy. So I tow the toy and we get the first of a slight tug from dog, I do not tug in return, instead I bowl the ball along the ground, pup races after the ball then I pull the teddy on a string along the ground. Pup drops the ball and jumps on the teddy, then I stop pulling the teddy and bowl the ball. Pup goes to the new movement, sometimes they will early pick up the ball sometimes not, it isn't important for the Pup to do any particular behaviour, you will decide for yourselves how the game progresses and it will be as unique as you and your pup's game can be. After a few days, every time you bring out the toys your pup will be there looking, waiting, anticipating, the fun. Look him in the eye and say 'Good Boy' before you start. He will look to eye you to get you to play after that and soon it will be 'Good Boy Sit' before you play. Look at this - no training food has been used, it is all about the game.

Many people tell me 'He will play at home but not anywhere else' Why do you suppose that it? it is because the only place you play with him is in the lounge at 6,.30p.m. at night, so you start playing at 7a.m. in the morning outside on the deck, then you play at lunchtime on the weekend in the driveway, then you play in the park on lead. Then you go to a friends house and play there, then you introduce playing with distractions, start with very small distraction and build them up. What sort of distractions? noises, other people playing, other dogs quite close by. Dog needs to choose play and not bother about where they are or what the distraction is. This is his security blanket, this is what makes him feel safe. Never ever growl at your dog when you are playing and don't allow anyone else to butt in or make growly noises either, be careful not to scare your pup or young dog, the distractions cannot start before he is ready. So start the game a fair way away from the distraction and gradually move closer to the noise or whatever. How do you know when you have reached pup's threshhold of play that can be interrupted by distraction. Pup stops tugging or playing and looks for the distraction, don't carry on trying to get him to play, look around where he is looking and acknowledge the distraction and say 'good dog' - wait till he is a comfortable distance away before you start to play again.

Once your puppy chooses you over other dogs, other noises and any distraction - then you have the focus to move on to the games you want your dog to play.

Thursday, August 23 2012

Sorting Home Problems for Dogs Part 3

Bring your new puppy into your life during your annual holidays, if you work.

Make sure you have two weeks to settle puppy into your home. If you picked puppy up at 8 weeks old then the next two weeks are the equivalent of one quarter of his life. If you stick to a schedule during those two weeks, feeding, playing, toilet time, bed time, pretty much at the same hours, then your new puppy will settle into his new life really quickly.

Do not be tempted to take it walkies or even much car riding, except to the vet to get his shots, keep life as simple as possible.

Hand feed your puppy. Sit down by his bowl and put your hand in there and help him to eat. Your hand will be like another puppy's head and he will feel comforted by that.

Give your puppy a harmless (i.e. check the stuffing and eyes of the thing) soft toy to play with and sleep with. Preferably something a bit bigger than him that he can nestle into, chew on and pull. Second hand stores and Op Shops have wonderful pre-loved toys looking for puppy homes, very cheaply.

Play with your puppy. My best game is a piece of old sheet about 50cm long tied in the middle with a soft cord which gives me a one meter long handle. Flanalette sheet is best. I pull it along the floor slowly and then jerk it. When puppy pounces I let him land on it and still it. Then when he lets it go I pull it along the floor some more. Eventually I can pull it along the floor with him diving on it like a cat chasing a toy, - same action. I can then start to raise it off the ground a bit and let it drop. I can run along dragging the toy and he follows me and jumps on it.

Words of caution, when he grabs the toy in his mouth DO NOT pull him along with it by his mouth, We are not attempting to lift him off the ground or do any stupid things, we just want him to follow it and jump on it and have a chew at it. You can flick it over his head so he spins around to grab it. At 10 weeks I find about 15minutes in two lots of play per day is sufficient. Do not do it to death. Roll a nice big ball for dog as well. A nice soft ball that he cannot fit in his mouth is good. Small balls, marbles and other round objects should be moved right off the property.

Which incidentally brings me to the statement that prior to getting a puppy, walk around the quarters he will be living in, sleeping in, playing in and make sure there are not dangerous bits and bobs in those places. Like what? Easily accessed electrical cords, protruding nails. Heaps of old garden bricks precariously ready to fall down, old toys in sandpits small metal trucks, bits of plastic toys. Things that can fall, cut, or lodge in throats.

When puppy is twelve weeks and living happily in his crate and playing happily with you, the family cat, other family dogs etc, put his puppy collar on in the mornings and take it off at night. I quite like cat collars for first collars as they have an elastic inset which makes it safer than a tight dog collar. Of course if you have a Mastiff Breed puppy then a cat collar will be out of the question size wise and you will need to use a fairly large collar, but get a really soft collar and as wide as possible for the big breeds. Have a spare bit of that cord we were talking about with the sheet above. About half a meter to a meter long depending on the size of your breed. This type of cord is available from craft shops and comes in various colours. It is quite tough and very soft, doesn't chew through easily and bits don't fall off it. Anyway, when you are with your twelve week old, playing, feeding etc, tie the piece of string to the collar and let it trail behind, as he passes by you just stand on it and bring him to a halt. Puppy will turn and look up at you, make eye contact and say 'Good Dog Fido' and if you have treat food with you, give him a tiny treat. You can do this three or four times a day. You can also pick up the piece of cord and give it a bit of a light tug, again he will spin round and look up and you will repeat 'Good Dog Fido' and treat him if possible. After a few days this will be totally natural behaviour and when you put a leash on that puppy there will be no trauma or drama , it will be part of his life.

By the time your gorgeous puppy is 16 weeks and fully vaccinated, he will be on a light lead, he will be making eye contact with you when you say 'Good Dog Fido', he will be playing vigourously with you and able to entertain himself with his ball and soft toy, he is happy with all people , nobody has shouted, or yelled at him or beaten him with a newspaper etc. He will trot outside and look for piddle spots, but sometimes still have accidents. He will travel in his crate in the car, sleep happily all night in his crate in the house. Walk a little way up the road and back, happy on his lead, and is ready for his first training school.

Take your puppy to a Dog Training School for one hour a week or one hour twice a week if possible. Do not go to puppy training with the view that you want to raise a genius, just relax and let your puppy socialise, follow the trainer's instructions. Take your toy pull along thing to puppy class, feed your dog treat food at puppy class and generally let your dog take in the atmosphere. If you and your puppy do not get the hang of sit stays and come to me, don't get hung up about it. If your dog is pulling on the lead to get in the door/gate to the class after going for a couple of weeks, you have done exactly as necessary. From 16 weeks to 25 weeks mucking about in the company of other dogs, in another place and maybe learning a very short sit stay, and able to chase his toy in company and still make eye contact with you when all around is the bedlam of other puppies is awesome.

Some of the reasons that puppies grow into snarly dogs at other dogs, is mishandling at puppy school by their handler, a rushed, stressed owner/handler is the worst enemy of puppy training. Go to puppy training in your oldest gardening clothes. If you bleed from accidental nipping, go the whole hog and wear your garden gloves as well. Sit on the ground/floor with your puppy and allow other pups to come up to him. Do not restrain him, snatch him away or lift him off the ground away from other dogs. Let him loose(in a suitable space of course), to make friends with the other puppies.

Now generally I like puppy schools where the toys and minis are separate from the big dogs and giants at the start. This avoids the owner/handler of small dogs going into major panic as a masterful looking chocky lab pup ambles over to her tiny maltese. The panic that the owner/handler feels then goes straight to the heart of the little dog who becomes fearful and snappy, while the chocky lab looks on bewildered at the little fella and takes an instant dislike to small white fluffy dogs, which may(pardon the pun) dog the chocky for the rest of his days as well.

Not all socialisation is good socialisation. If a puppy is exhibiting terror at puppy class on the first day, then some damage with other dogs has already happened somewhere. Remove the dog from the class group. Give the handler a chair about ten meters away and just let them sit there doing their own thing for the whole hour. Week by week move the terrorised puppy closer. If it means that that is inch by inch then so be it. If ten meters is not far enough then move it further away. At the end of your ten week? sometimes puppy training classes, as a trainer I would ask that owner/handler to come to the next set of classes absolutely for free. This owner/handler dog combination is the one that needs your help the most. I guarantee that puppy will excel in the next session. But always make sure he is the first one in the space - get the owner to come ten minutes early and let him get a handle on the venue. There should be no more problems.

However, I have digressed. If I have separated big dogs from small dogs, say big dogs on Mondays and small dogs on Tuesdays or whatever, I would , after two weeks, ask my most boisterous small dogs to come to the big dog class and my most timid big dogs to come to the small dog class. Again with the change in sizes and the time and/or day of lessons, I would keep the visitors on the outside of the class circle and slowly integrate them into the full working session. Sometimes this is quick, sometimes not, but the good thing is it is reverseable, if it doesn't work out you can pop them back into their original classes. My vision would be that at the end of ten weeks the two classes are one. But then there might be that one or two who need another ten weeks to really get it right. The reasons can be, the inability of owners to get to every class or the odd puppy with over exuberance or panic problems. The very odd new team need some one on one and a bit of extra guidance.

So here we are at the stage where we have a happy,playful pup who is 24,25 weeks who likes everybody and gets on with all dogs, is able to sit and stay a bit, lie on his mat on command and come when he is called.

So we are ready for the next step in entertainment of our new dog. Walkies........

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